Flagstaff, Arizona
In beauty, it is restored in beauty. – a Navajo proverb.
Through the diner’s window, I could see Humphrey’s Peak in the distance. Rising to 12,633 feet, it’s the crown of the San Francisco Volcanic Field, some of North America’s most ancient geology. Andrew A. Humphreys was a Civil War General, so I prefer the Hopi title for the mountain, Aaloosaktukwi, meaning “its summit never melts.”
It was now August and the snowpack was thin, clearing passage to the top on a popular trail. I planned to hike there the next morning.
I sipped my coffee and waited for the breakfast burrito recommended on Yelp. The place was popular, with most of the tables filled, a clatter of dishes and conversation. The smell of bacon and biscuits filled the air.
Two months earlier, my wife, Liz, had seen my restlessness and sour mood. She’d endured my complaints about politics, the economy, and the inept administration at the high school where I taught. FUBAR, I muttered too often. I was out of whack, even more so than usual, and a deeper level of angst was seeping into my dreams at night. Finally, my grumbling was too much for Liz.
“Why don’t you use your summer break to get out of here,” she said. “You’ve always wanted to hit the road like the Jacks. What better time to do it?”
By Jacks she meant Kerouac and Reacher, two wanderers—one real, one fictional—that had always intrigued me. Liz knew that I lived vicariously through too many literary characters, reluctant to act on my own desires. She was laying down a gauntlet.
“You wouldn’t mind holding down the fort?” I asked. We’re childless, so that meant caring for our dog and cat.
She smiled and winked. “Mind? I’d be relieved to get rid of your moping for a while.”
We both laughed and I made my decision. With very little foreplaning, I took our old Nissan Sentra and left our home in Fresno, California. Driving isn’t romantic like hitchhiking, or using trains and buses, but I still let the road guide me. No set route, traveling at whim. I’d been to over a dozen states and seen some remarkable things. Now I was heading home.
But I still felt restless and out of balance, not what I expected after my mobile version of a walkabout. I feared this would be my default mood, and the thought of returning to work gave me claustrophobia. Liz deserved more. My students deserved more.
The server, a young Latina with multiple piercings and a bright smile. brought my breakfast and refilled my coffee. My eyes kept returning to the peak, imagining the next day’s trek, when I had that sense that someone was watching me. I turned towards the dining counter, its swivel chairs lined with customers. There was a tall man wearing jeans, boots, and a Carhartt shirt, his long black hair in a ponytail. He looked to be in his mid-20s, certainly Native American, with high cheekbones and large, slightly almond-shaped eyes. He smiled at me as he slipped off his stool and made his way to my table, coffee cup in hand.
“I hope I’m not being rude,” he said, “but I notice how you keep looking to the mountains.”
Conversations with strangers had been some high points of my travels. “You’re not being rude at all. I’m just thinking about my hike up Humphreys tomorrow morning. I’m looking forward to it.”
He nodded. “It’s a great climb. I was up there a couple weeks ago, something I wanted to do before going home. Now I’ve been to the top of all four sacred mountains.”
“Four?”
“Yes. Mount Blanca to the east. Mount Taylor to the south. Mount Hesperus to the north, and these San Francisco Peaks to the west.
He gestured first through the window, then to the empty seat across from me. “Mind if I join you?”
“Not at all. I’d love the company.”
He settled in and placed his cup on the table.
“My name’s Thomas,” he said, reaching his hand across the table to shake mine.
“Phil,” I responded, returning his strong grip. “You mentioned going home. Where’s that?”
“Shiprock. My family has roots that date back centuries.”
“So, obviously you’re Navajo.”
“Navajo alone,” he said with a wry smile.
“What does that mean?”
“That both sides of my family have never intermarried with other tribes or races. At least that’s what we claim. It’s a huge point of pride, especially for my mother’s clan. Navajo snobs”
He laughed. “How about you? Where are you from?”
“Fresno, California. I’ve been wandering around the country for a couple months, but I’m heading back. I’m a teacher, so I had a summer break. I’d always imagined taking an unstructured trip.”
He nodded and sipped his coffee. “I’m thinking about teaching, but in a different way. I just graduated from Northern Arizona University with a degree in anthropology. I’d like to be a cultural interpreter, hopefully with the National Park Service.”
“Sounds like a great goal.”
He studied me for a few seconds. “I’m curious. Was all your wandering what you imagined it would be?”
His question felt like a tipping point. How much would I share with a stranger? I decided to let it all out.
“There’s an old saying, ‘wherever you go, there you are.’ I started this trek because I felt unbalanced. I had let so much of the conflict in our country get inside me. I felt powerless and insignificant, despite my wife’s love. I know it sounds self-entered, but it was even hard to sleep at night. I thought that getting away for this time would help clear my head.”
“But it didn’t?”
“Not really. And now that I’m headed home, I have this depressing feeling that I’ll just pick up where I left off.”
He didn’t say anything. We sat in silence as he turned his eyes to the distant peak. I began to wonder if I’d been too intimate, but I just waited. The breakfast crowd was thinning, with people leaving and cars pulling out of the parking lot.
Finally, he turned his eyes back to me. “Do you know the Navajo word hozho?”
“Vaguely.”
“It’s hard to translate, especially for Western minds. The closest bilagáana words would be balance or harmony. Our right relationship with nature, our community, and our inner selves. You could say it’s the quality that Navajos hold most sacred.”
I shook my head ruefully. “Harmony is rare in our world. I don’t see it anywhere, and it doesn’t help that I doom scroll too much on the web.”
He chuckled. “I hear you. I can get wrapped up in it also, especially when I return home. There are so many challenges on the reservation and our people have such a painful history in relationship to this country. I have a sister who works as a nurse in one of our medical clinics. She keeps urging me to stay on the res and work to better our conditions, but I don’t think it’s my path. To be honest, I’m searching for a clearer direction.”
I appreciated his candor. “I always encourage my students to find their own calling. The pressure to adopt scripts from our family and society is damn strong.”
He nodded. “That’s another reason I’m going home. To meet with my grandfather. He’s an old sheep farmer but also one of the most respected medicine men on the res. Growing up, whenever he could see I was troubled, he insisted on helping me return to the old ways. Sometimes a sweat, sometimes a sing ceremony, sometimes just a reminder to say my daily prayers.”
“Did it work?”
“Usually,” he said with that wry smile again.
He reached into his pocket and pulled out what looked like a business card. “Anyway, I need to get on the road. Can I leave this with you?”
He handed it to me. “You probably know this famous prayer, the Blessing Way, but I find it helpful when I’m feeling restless or disturbed. I designed these to share with others I meet. A small piece of my culture.”
The printing on the card was embossed, set against an image of a sunrise. It read, With beauty before me I walk, with beauty behind me I walk, with beauty beneath me I walk, with beauty above me I walk, with beauty all around me I walk.
I’d heard the words before, but not for a long time. “Thank you. I’ll remember these few moments we shared.”
He stood and reached to shake my hand. “So will I. I’ll be thinking about you on the trail tomorrow. You’ll probably be near the summit as I pull into Shiprock.”
Then he nodded and left. Through the window, I saw him get into an older Dodge pickup and merge onto the highway. I smiled and turned my gaze once again to the mountains.
________
I left the trailhead at dawn under a clear blue sky, determined to reach the top and return before the weather changed. Afternoon thunderstorms were always a threat, and I didn’t want to be exposed on the peak.
The trail took me through shimmering aspen groves and meadows laced with lupine and columbine. Butterflies drifted among the flowers like blossoms with wings. The air was redolent with the smell of the soil, the grasses, and the trees, an intoxicating mix. At one switchback, just a few feet from the trail, a partridge eyed me with curiosity.
Mid-morning, I broke from the timber line and climbed the craggy volcanic stones of the final ascent, like mounting the stairs of an ancient temple jumbled by earthquakes. To my right, snow still clung to the slope. Swifts arrowed overhead, trapping alpine insects with precision.
The view from the summit was breathtaking. On the northwestern horizon was the rim of the Grand Canyon, carved over eons of time. To the northeast were the mesas of the Hopis who historically believed this peak is where kachinas live, the blessed bringers of rain.
The wind was brisk, buffeting my face. I’m not sure how long I stood there drinking in the vistas, but slowly, thoughts of returning to the workaday schedule of my life began to crowd my mind, like traffic noise or conversation from a distant room that suddenly got louder. I pushed it away, thinking of my brief encounter with Thomas and the prayer he’d left with me.
I took a deep breath and surveyed the splendid view ahead of me. I turned my head to an equally magnificent panorama behind me. I looked beneath me at the multicolored volcanic stones, remnants of primordial eruptions. Then I lifted my eyes to the blue dome of the sky.
Beauty. All around me. Embracing me and moving through me, dissolving resistance to its presence. Time never really stands still, but it surely felt like it as I stood there for moments, for eternity, with only the wind in my ears and the sound of my own breathing.
When I finally began my descent, it was a pivot beyond words, a personal kenshō, and as I fell into my hiking cadence, I thought of some words from a review of Kerouac’s Dharma Bums: “In the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain.”
I started laughing so hard that some other hikers approaching me on the trail were startled.
“Having a good time?” one of them asked with a bemused smile.
“The time of my life,” I responded.









